Painting on the Isle of Lewis

Light on the Turquoise Sea

Every year, I spend a week away painting with my oldest friend, the artist Nicole Stevenson.

We met back in 1983 at Edinburgh College of Art.

Over the years, we’ve painted in many places around the UK, from Cornwall in the south to Durness in the north, and also been abroad, the highlights being Venice and Marrakesh.

It is always a really inspiring time, painting intensely, spurring each other on, as it can be a lonely business being an artist.

This year we decided to return to Uig on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides as it has abundant beautiful beaches, alongside little clusters of communities, clinging onto the edge of the Atlantic.

We quite often end up looking in the opposite direction from one another, but come together once we’ve captured our subject.

A visit to Cliff beach

Clambering over the headland, carting rucksack, easel and board, we arrive to the thunderous crash of foaming waves, white and frothy dissipating into lace patterned sheets, that glide effortlessly up the beach.The sound fills my stomach with a mix of exhilaration and unease, but I know the tide is still on its way out.We’re safe.A natural arch carved into the rock attracts my eye.No light today, but the contrast between the white waves and jet black rocks lights my enthusiasm.The sky is heavy with cloud, but thankfully no rain.The arcing waves, translucent like turquoise glass rear up, then crash into an opaquey froth. Trying to capture this turbulent water is always a challenge, constantly shape shifting, constantly on the move against the steadfast rocks, reassuringly stable and solid.Wetting the paper, slate grey, olive green,teal and aquamarine mix on the wet surface, coaxed by the angle of the board to emulate the scene before me.I love the freedom and spontaneity of this part of my painting process, trying hard not to be in complete control of what’s happening.Once the wind dries this watery stage, I decide which areas I want to bring out of the liquidy haze. I define with soft pastel bringing form and detail but also being aware to preserve some of the luscious fluidity.

Working just a stones throw from our cottage, dodging the showers.

The sea here is so much calmer, sheltered by the cluster of small islands off the shore.

Another sea study.

Such a challenge to try and capture the wild energy of the waves, rolling in from the Atlantic.

Sometimes paintings don't always work out the way you want them to.

At low tide, I revisited Cliff beach, with the intension of painting the rock pools.

Under the cliff, where the tide left reflective pools of water, between those great dollops of rocks, I began to paint.

As surfers were battling the waves, I battled away, until I felt totally defeated.

As I came away, I felt a bit deflated, but I know it is all part of the process, not everything works out.

The next day however, I began to crop the painting into pieces and decided I really liked the little paintings that started to emerge from the "mistake"

Working in the shade of the dunes, mesmerised by that turquoise water, as the tide returns and the dark clouds recede.

I'm hoping to have a collection of paintings from my latest trips away, available to buy on my website soon.

In the meantime, this painting below "Passing Shower" Skye, will be exhibited in the Highland Art Prize in The McCallum Art House in Fort William PH33 6BA

from Friday 10th – Saturday 18th October 2025 (11am-5pm), in conjunction with the

 Royal National Mod.

Thanks so much for reading and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to get in touch.

All best wishes,

Helen